Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
Author:
Genres: Biographies & Memoirs, Sports & Outdoors, Travel
Book Type: Paperback
Author:
Genres: Biographies & Memoirs, Sports & Outdoors, Travel
Book Type: Paperback
Marcia C. reviewed on + 670 more book reviews
Unbelievably well-written and vivid. A memoir of five decades of surfing - mostly as a kid and young adult, but also as an adult. Loved it.